Installing bnc

Sign In. Brands Hellermann Tyton Signamax Inc. Brands Platinum Tools, Inc. Fire Protection. Safety Equipment. Fiber Optic. Cable Management. Network Products. Electrical Supplies. Cable Cover Protection. Braided Sleeving. Cable Ties. Cable Tray Systems. Cable Sleeving. Cable Raceway. I crimp close to the head of the connector, then do another if necessary at the opposite end. Last step, when both ends are on: Use a ohmmeter to ensure that the electrical connections are proper.

Make sure the center pins aren't shorted to the shell, and that both ends are electrically connected. Return to the Fly Baby Home Page. Something to be aware of is that these strippers are designed to work with a variety of cable, so there are some adjustments to make.

You can see the little "X" dial turned to "8" for RG cable. In addition, the internal cutters will have to be manually positioned to cut the right dimensions.

More on that later. Make sure you get one that covers RG cable. You also want the kind that ratchets, just a like a professional-quality terminal crimper. The ratcheting makes sure the fitting is completely crimped; it doesn' let the tool turn loose until it's all the way down. You can get these from a variety of sources. Connectors The standard cable connection used in most aviation radios is a BNC male plug.

Also, you must buy the connectors for either stranded or solid conductor coax, depending on what kind you're using. And buy enough so that you're not scrambling to find them if you suddenly find you need to make another cable.

The Process OK, let's go through the process of installing the connectors. Stripping the Cable First step? Making sure you've got some spare cable to practice on.

Second step is to set up your cable stripper to cut the right dimensions for the connectors you're using. The diagram to the right illustrates the typical coax make-up. The black is the outside shell of the coax, the yellow is the braided shield, the white is the dielectric insulator around the center conductor, and the copper-colored bit is the center conductor itself.

The dimensions cause some discussion. The figure to the right shows two dimensions, one by a connector provider, and the other some "real world" experience by an RV builder. I kind of like the fact that the "real world" values are easier to check. But as you can see, there's some variation. The "C" dimension, especially, isn't critital. It's the amount the center conductor sticks out past the dielectric, is manually trimmed later. You'll need to set up your cable stripper to approximate these dimensions.

You remove the pin that the cutters pivot on, and reposition the blades to the desired positions. Once the cutters are in the right place, adjust the depth of cut. The Amazon unit includes a small Allen wrench that fit hex sockets in the bottom of the tool. One socket controls the depth of the cutter that cuts the outer shell, braid, and dielectric away from the center conductor.

The other one controls the cutter that strips the outer shell from the top of the braid. I like to adjust both so they both barely FAIL to cut all the way through. They just leave a thin skin of plastic holding the pieces together. This way, you run less chance of scoring the center conductor or cutting the braid free. To cut, hold the tool in your right hand with your thumb atop the lever that opens the jaws.

Open the jaws, and insert the cable into the left side of the tool so that the end comes out on the right side, and let the jaws close again. The amount the cable sticks out on the right side is not critical; you're going to probably be trimming away center conductor anyway. Hold the cable on the left side of the tool.

Stick your finger in the hole in the end of the tool, and twirl it around the cable The open the jaws and remove the cable.